Restaurant Review: In changing seasons, Edgewater’s Beard & Belly offers hearty comfort food
With Labor Day in the rearview mirror, and as we enter Meteorological Fall, our palates turn towards heartier fare…gastropub favorites like burgers, Mac & Cheese, and baked desserts like pie and cookies.
Standing at the ready to serve the hearty gastropub fare you crave is Edgewater’s Beard & Belly, founded in 2015 by chefs Kyle Schrage (The Beard) and Jim Torres (The Belly.) According to their website, Belly has won the award for “Best Grilled Cheese in Chicago,” their Mac and Cheese was voted in the top three in the city, and the burger was listed as one of the top 10 in Chicago by TimeOut Chicago Magazine.
Start with unique, hearty apps like their Spicy Pickled Egg, served with spicy remoulade, bacon bits, and fresh herbs. Deep-Fried Cheese Curds arebeer-battered cheese curds, deep fried, piled high and served with ranch dressing. Deep-Fried Pickles are battered with Spiteful Lager and served with pickle chips and a spicy remoulade. Another specialty is their Short Rib Poutine… French fries, cheese curds, and short ribs are smothered in 3-day gravy, white cheddar cheese sauce, and fresh herbs.
Savory Hand Pies all havea flaky, buttery pastry crust filled with a savory filling, and served alongside fries and a side salad or soup. Huevos Rancheros Hand Pie isfilled with house-made chicken chorizo sausage, white cheddar, scrambled egg, and salsa verde. Chicken Pot Pie Hand Pie has chicken, carrots, potatoes, peas, and béchamel sauce, and is served with a cranberry chutney. Red Beans and Rice Hand Pie isfilled with red beans, rice, and okra, and served with a spicy remoulade.
Hearty sandwiches include an Ubiquitous Grilled Cheese, served on thick cut brioche, with Butterkase cheese, 2-year cheddar, and spread with tomato jam. Vegan Curried Chickpea Salad is made with vegan mayo and served with lettuce and tomato on ciabatta. Turkey Caprese Sandwich pairs Harrison Family Farms roasted turkey breast with tomatoes, pesto mayo, fresh mozzarella, red onion, and mixed greens, served on toasted ciabatta.
Burgers include The Half-Pint, a ⅓ pound, hand-pressed patty, with Butterkäse (it’s fancy cheese), pickles, and house-made “awesome sauce.” The Beard’s Burger is a half pound of hand-pressed specialty beef blend patties, with cheddar, bacon, crispy fried onions, thick sliced pickles, black garlic bbq, and tomato jam. The Belly’s Burger is a ⅓ pound hand-pressed patty, Butterkase cheese, roasted serrano, pickles, onion jam, and their house-made “awesome sauce.”
DON’T FORGET DESSERT! For this, Beard & Belly has a partnership with Honeypie Bakery,an iconic establishment in Milwaukee operated by Valeri Lucks. Every day, they serve specially selected cream and fruit pies that have been praised by the likes of Martha Stewart and Oprah Winfrey.
Local Google reviewers enjoy Beard and Belly for the comfort and quality ingredients.
“Nice neighborhood bar, bakery, restaurant,” said one. “Come for the burger, stay for the pie. Fried pickles, great choice. Battered in a tempura like coating, deep fried to a crispy delight. Burger and fries may need a lighter hand on the salt, well cooked, go for the medium or medium well. Well pressed graham cracker crust on pies.”
“We walked in for brunch on Sunday morning and were able to get a table right away,” said another. “We started with the honeypie biscuit and jam which was delicious and came warm. It was soft and flakey, and paired really well with the butter. For my main dish I got the huevos rancheros handpie and a side of smashed tots. The tots were seasoned well and delicious. Everything came hot and fresh. Our waiter was really friendly and checked on us often. Overall a great spot and delicious food!”
Beard & Belly is located at 6157 N. Broadway, They are open Monday – Thursday for lunch from 11am-2pm, and dinner from 2pm-10pm. Friday, lunch is from 11am-2pm, and dinner from 2pm–11pm. Saturday, brunch is served from10am-2pm and dinner from 2pm-11pm. Sunday brunch is served from 10am – 2pm, and dinner from 2pm – 10pm. For more information, click here.
Alison Moran-Powers and Dean’s Team Chicago