Restaurant Review: In Wicker Park, Dove’s Luncheonette delivers Michelin-listed Tex-Mex treats
As their Michelin Guide listing says, Wicker Park’ s Dove’s Luncheonette, 1545 N. Damen Avenue, took its name from Nelson Algren’s ‘A Walk on the Wild Side.’ The upscale 41-seat diner (no reservations) pays homage with Chef de Cuisine Tom Carlin overseeing such favorites as Bacalau Fritters with habanero and green olive aïoli, and Brisket Hash, an oft-mentioned delight for local reviewers.
As their website promises, Dove’s delivers the Southern-inspired Mexican cuisine, alongside a tequila and mezcal-focused bar program, set to the sounds of 1960s and 70s Chicago soul and blues.
Start with an appetizer like Deviled Eggs, made Tex-Mex with a mix of chipotle, scallions, and hot sauce. Or Pimento Cheese with Hook’s 2-year cheddar, pepper jelly, b&b pickles, and served with very unique Fried Saltines. (You gotta try them to believe!)
Dove’s Burnt Ends Hash is one of their most popular entrees, with crispy potatoes, brisket burnt ends, chipotle aioli, queso fresco, two scrambled eggs, scallion, and Texas toast.
The other most popular entrée is Chicken Fried Chicken with buttermilk fried chicken, chorizo verde gravy, sweet peas, and pearl onions.
Taco Norteño finds another tasty way to serve smoked brisket, this time with crispy cheese, salsa aguacate, and salsa mexicano, served on an open-faced large, house made flour tortilla.
For a sweet-savory-spicy experience, try Dove’s Masa Pancakes, with mole-spiced maple syrup, and whipped agave butter.
A truly unusual twist on a shrimp cocktail, the Back To Life Cocktail, is chock full of pescetarian delights. Savor the spicy mix of shrimp, mussels, crab, avocado, abd cilantro in a tomato-habanero salsa!
Mine is not the only positive review.
“Excellent food and immaculate vibes,” said one Google reviewer. “Dove’s was exactly what we were looking for: a chill spot with an interesting menu and solid service. I had the brisket hash, coffee, and one of their cocktail specials, and my wife had the tlayuda, all of which were fantastic. The service was perfect and the servers were personable and very chill. I’m already looking forward to coming back!”
Another wrote, “Dove’s is an unassuming “diner” serving killer modern, Mexican-inspired dishes. Put your name on the wait list, enjoy the surrounding area, and come back for an excellent meal. Chicken fried chicken, brisket hash, masa pancakes. Everything was fresh, bursting with flavor, and clearly made with care. Love the informality, eclectic vibe, and super friendly service. Huge portions at very reasonable prices. Dove’s is truly a standout in a neighborhood full of great options.”
Dove’s Luncheonette is open Monday – Wednesday from 9am to 3pm, Thursday and Friday from 9am to 9pm, Saturday from 8am to 9pm, and Sunday from 8am to 3pm. Their Happy Hours are Thursday – Saturday: 3pm to 6pm. Seating is on a first come, first served basis. For more information, click here.
Alison Moran-Powers and Dean’s Team Chicago
