Restaurant Review: Lincoln Park’s Pequod’s Pizza earns its reputation…for many…as the “best pan pizza in Chicago”
“We’ve got to get to Pequod’s Pizza!” a good friend of ours said recently. “It’s my favorite pizza place in Chicago!”
How could we resist such an enthusiastic invitation? Especially to a place named the Chicago Tribune 2022 Readers’ Choice Food Award for “Best Chicago-Style Pizza,” made famous by FX TV’s Emmy award-winning The Bear.
Every month or so, the four of us get together at various pizza spots around the Chicago metropolitan area. It’s so much fun to evaluate the crispiness of the crust, the sweetness of the sauce, and the delectable runniness of the cheese with good friends!
Home of the Carmelized Crust
Last Saturday, we trekked to the shabby-chic décor of the 40-year-old Pequod’s Pizza, arriving to a packed house, with lines out the door. Good thing we’d made a reservation, and we advise strongly that you do the same.
What makes the pizza so special? In an area with literally thousands of pizza options to choose from, Pequod’s claim to fame is their caramelized pizza crust. As they say on their website, (the late) Burt Katz first started making deep pan pizza with a caramelized cheese crust in 1963 at The Inferno.
Pequod’s method involves pressing the dough flat in the pan, letting it rise, then placing sliced cheese all the way around the edges. They cook the cheese at high heat until it crisps against the edges of the pan. That leaves a unique flavor that some describe as nutty, sweet, and bitter.
I found it “nutty.” And crunchy.
The other truly unique aspect of the Pequod’s experience was the ubiquitous presence of Sean Asbra, general manager of Pequod’s Pizza. The day we were there, I observed his personal commitment to customer service as he ran a virtual marathon, checking up on customers in the two-story, brick-walled building and coming to our table personally to make sure we were happy.
And no, we didn’t tell him we were reviewing his spot!
He also offered helpful suggestions to would-be diners without reservations. “You can order for takeout,” he said to one walk-in, “It’ll be ready in 45 minutes.”
Deep Dish Delights
I’m sure their thin crust pizzas are great, but we were there for the personal pan pizzas that made Pequod’s reputation.
Our pizzas arrived hot and fresh, cut in fours, in a timely manner. One friend ordered sausage and an array of fresh veggies on a 10-inch pizza. The sauce was thick and rich, the sausage plentiful. He shared this about his experiences with Pequod’s, since he was the one who suggested it: “Pequod’s pizza is unique with a delicious caramelized sauce and a great choice of toppings. It’s been my favorite for many years.”
His beautiful wife kept it simple with a sausage and cheese 10-inch pan pizza. She was similarly impressed, “Pequod’s pizza is a must-try, with incredibly fresh, hot pizza that was cooked perfectly,” she began.
“The caramelized crust was just right, and the toppings were abundant” she continued. “The atmosphere was great, making it a fantastic spot to get together with family and friends. Highly recommend!”
For me, my 10-inch spinach and mushroom was a dream combination. The chunky tomato sauce balanced the sweet and tangy, the spinach cooked neither too mushy or left raw, and the mushrooms mixed with the crunchy carmelized crust for a great bite. While the carmelized crust was unusual at first, I soon enjoyed it.
While the toppings and tomato-based, chunky-thick pizza sauce earned universal praise and extra love at our table, the crust proved difficult for one friend, who ordered a tasty sausage and black olive 10-inch pan pizza. He observed that the crust was “very hard to cut through, especially when it cooled.” But he very much enjoyed the sausage and black olive combination.
While we concentrated on the pizzas, there’s plenty of other options at Pequod’s Pizza. Appetizers include their Cheese Corners, Jalapeño Poppers, served with ranch dressing, and for a completely balanced meal, their Caesar Salad with romaine and spring mix lettuce, croutons, cherry tomato, and shaved parmesan, or the Pequod’s Salad, a mix of romaine, spring mix, cheese, pepperoni, pepperoncini, green pepper, carrots, mushrooms, tomato, onion and shaved parmesan.
It’s very likely you’ll have leftovers, as we did, but if you have room, or want a sweet midnight snack, try their desserts. A Peanut Butter & Chocolate Chip Cookie, or Sugar Cookie would do the trick. Or, try a Bananas Foster or Key Lime Cheesecake.
Pequod’s Pizza is located at 2207 N. Clybourn Avenue. They are open Monday – Saturday, 11am – 2am, and Sunday, 11am – 12am. For reservations, click here.
Alison Moran-Powers and Dean’s Team Chicago
