Restaurant Review – Let’s all go out for ‘Recess!’
What’s the best way to celebrate the upcoming Fourth of July holiday? Outside, of course! Preferably close to a fireworks display, and preferably, with your family, friends and loved ones gathered around you…even the family dog.
In the West Loop, that place is Recess. As one Infatuation reviewer wrote, “The outdoor space is huge (14,500 square feet), which means that there’s plenty of space for you, your friends, and the matching pair of Irish Wolfhounds you adopted during the pandemic. Hopefully you trained one of them to drive you home.”
Recess tries, and largely succeeds, at being all things to all people. They are open for events, and are kid-and dog-friendly, yet also serve a 21+ crowd with enthusiasm. They would be a perfect choice for a gathering over the upcoming Fourth of July weekend!
The owners say as much. “Recess encourages guests to adult…like a kid, while serving up delicious American food and drink,” they say. “The Recess menu taps into the cravings of everyday life, offering casually elevated dishes with playful Chicago swagger, while Alec Pignotti’s beverage program takes a bright, ingredient-driven approach with cocktails both classic and original. In addition to the energetic adult playground vibes and menu offerings, Recess also offers a nostalgic array of indoor and outdoor activities including giant Jenga and Connect 4.”
Whomever you are, you’ll find a place for you and your friends at Recess.
They recently introduced a new summer menu, which includes Mango Shrimp Ceviche, served with plantain chips. For those who like their food light, Recess serves a Strawberry Goat Cheese salad, replete with hemp seed granola, apples, pickled golden raisins, and prickly pear vinaigrette. For those who like their Fourth of July with grilled burgers, their BBQ Burger is an 8-ounce (yes, you read it right—twice the size of a Quarter Pounder) beef patty, served with pepper jack cheese, crispy onions, and BBQ sauce, on an onion brioche bun.
One starter of particular interest is The Quilted Hog, a Giant Pig in a Blanket, with smoked pork sausage, pickled shallots, and harissa aioli. Wash it down with a Crook County Cold Brew, which pairs la colombe cold brew coffee, raw sugar, and lemon zest, or a Bi-Partisan Bloody Mary with gluten-free vodka, savor and salt Bloody Mary mix, and served with meat, cheese, and celery.
If there’s one complaint I have about Recess, it’s that the menu items could be consistently, creatively named. For every Quilted Hog or City Hall Cheeseburger Slider, there’s a Chicken Sandwich (with fresh mozzarella, beefsteak tomato, pesto mayo, served on a brioche bun) or Philly Steak Taquitos (with roasted poblano and pepper jack cheese dip) dying for lack of a creative name. It doesn’t take away from having a delicious bite. But you’d be tempted to skip over them for a more creatively named dish. The owners have shown their capabilities.
Bob’s Pizza is a separate kitchen that serves up traditional 16” pies deliciously at Recess. One specialty is the Spinach Pesto & Stracciatella, with prosciutto, sun-dried tomatoes, baby arugula, and lemon. A Korean BBQ pizza combines roasted chicken thigh with creamy apple barbeque, basil, scallions, house-made kimchi, and pea tendrils.
Recess is located at 838 W. Kinzie. They are open Mondays and Tuesday from 4pm-midnight; Wednesday-Friday, they open at 4pm, and on Saturday and Sunday, they are open at 11am for brunch. For more information, click here.
Alison Moran-Powers and Dean’s Team Chicago
