Restaurant Review: For Moroccan specialties, nothing beats Old Irving Park’s Shokran
Moroccan cuisine, as described by Shokran’s chef/owner Khalid Kamal, “blends oriental spices brought by Arabic caravans; local produce such as mint, citrus, and olive oil; and the delicate and elaborate flavor combinations from the cosmopolitan and refined Andalusia.”
Kamal told WTTW’s ‘Check Please!’ in an interview, “The natives of Morocco (Berbers) created the tagine and couscous dishes. The Arabs from the Middle East brought the dry fruit that got incorporated in Moroccan cuisine; the Jewish people brought the pickling methods to Moroccan cooking; and the Moroccans, who lived in Spain for eight centuries, introduced the sweet and savory dishes.”
Chef Kamal brings all the flavors of Morocco to a small, cash-only, BYOB storefront in Chicago’s Old Irving Park neighborhood, serving fragrant blends of spices, meats and vegetables in warm, comforting combinations.
“The reason It’s different, is just the spices we use and different ingredients we use in it; and the way we assemble it,” Kamal told ABC7 Chicago in 2012.
Since it’s hot this week, let’s try some of their cold appetizers. Taktouka is roasted green peppers and tomatoes, flavored with virgin olive oil and special Moroccan spices. Carrot Salad hasJulienne carrots marinated in parsley, olive oil, Moroccan spices and preserved lemon. Mmmm!! Zaalouk is roasted eggplant cooked with fresh tomatoes, virgin olive oil, cilantro, garlic and spices. Or, for the undecided, you can try a little of everything in their Veggie Sampler a tasty combination plate of carrots, bakola, zaalouk and taktouka.
Cool salads for a summer day include their Shokran Salad, a combination of mixed greens, raisins, apples, walnuts and feta cheese with a raspberry vinaigrette. Beet Salad is a colorful mix of roasted beets and tomatoes, tossed with julienne red onions, then marinated in parsley, olive oil and fresh lemon juice. Moroccan Salad has romaine lettuce, tomato, green pepper, red onion, cucumber, red olives and feta cheese, with home-made dressing.
While Shokran serves delicious kebabs and couscous, the Tangine, (the conical earthenware pot and the dish prepared therein,) is the star attraction here. Try the Lamb Marrakech, which blends tender lamb in a rich Moroccan stew with heart of artichoke and green peas. Kefta combines seasoned Moroccan meatballs cooked in a rich tomato sauce with olive oil, garlic, parsley and your choice of with or without eggs. Lamb Fez is a unique sweet and savory combination of tender lamb in a rich Moroccan stew with prunes, cinnamon, almonds and honey, garnished with hard boiled eggs. Chicken Casablanca is a chicken breast in a rich Moroccan stew with potatoes, olives and Moroccan spices. Moroccan Chicken is a flavorful chicken breast with saffron, olives, preserved lemon and home-made potato crisps.
Vegetable Tagine is a delectable mixture of carrots, red potatoes, artichoke hearts, peas and tomatoes, which is slow-cooked in olive oil and Moroccan spices. Those who love salmon should try it Moroccan style. Their Salmon Tangine is a fresh salmon filet, slow-cooked with charmoula, vegetables and fresh lemons.
Shokranis located at 4027 W. Irving Park Road. It’s open for dinner Sunday, Wednesday, and Thursday 3pm–9pm, and Friday and Saturday, 3pm–10pm. Reservations are recommended. For reservation information, click here.
Alison Moran-Powers and Dean’s Team Chicago
