Restaurant Review: Rick Bayless’ Topolobampo in River North still delivers!
While many of Chef Rick Bayless’ contemporaries have ridden off into the sunset, the ‘Top Chef’ Master continues to turn out authentic, fresh, original Mexican cuisine, earning praise from Michelin, writing cookbooks, hosting TV shows with his daughter (PBS’s “Mexico, One Plate at a Time,’) and overseeing seven highly rated restaurants.
It has to help that Bayless’ first two restaurants, Frontera Grill and Topolobampo, stand side by side in River North. Less travel!
How it all began
Bayless started in 1987 with the casual Frontera Grill which earned James Beard Foundation’s highest award, Outstanding Restaurant, in 2007, via their website. The Michelin-starred Topolobampo served its first meals in 1991, and earned the Beard Foundation’s award for Outstanding Restaurant in 2017 — a unprecedented feat for side-by-side restaurants.
Topolo, as it’s nicknamed, presents Mexican cuisine “through a contemporary, fine-dining lens, while bringing vibrant excitement and adventure that is sure to enchant even the most experienced culinary travelers.”
Topolobampo is run by Bayless’ veteran Chef de Cuisine Meagan O’Connor and Pastry Chef Jennifer Enyart, both of whom have accompanied Chef Rick Bayless throughout Mexico.
Today: A Six-Course Tasting Menu
Right now, Topolobampo is featuring a six-course tasting menu. Start with Betabel, Jamón, Calamondin, which features Chef Meagan’s famous chewy beets, Gunthorp 3-year-aged ham, Jamaica-braised fennel, local jicama, calamondin-peanut dressing, and finger limes.
The tasting continues with Tetela, Mole Verde Oaxaqueño, which is crispy, two-tone triangular tetala (blue & white corn masa), Chiapas doble crema cheese filling, Oaxacan green mole (tomatillo, hoja santa, porcini broth), braised beauty heart radish, charred rooftop baby turnips, and Bayless garden herbs.
The third tasting course is Caldo de Mariscos Lujoso, which pairs smoked monkfish cheeks with razor clam, Louisiana lump crab, chayote, guajillo-tomato broth with epazote (Mexican tea.)
You may want to stop, but remember…they’ve been doing this over 30 years, and very successfully! Your fourth tasting course is Barbacoa de Borrego, a slow-cooked Gunthorp lamb barbacoa (red chile adobo, avocado leaf), grilled lamb loin, classic Oaxacan black beans with asiento (pig lard), and chile mixe salsa.
By the fifth course, you may be slowing down, but take time to savor Queso, Fruta & Buñuelo, a walnut-crusted, savory cheesecake (with Topolobampo’s exclusive Bola Roja aged goat cheese), braised quince, “ponche” gelatinas, and crispy buñuelo de viento with piloncillo drizzle.
And finally, as we always say when it’s warranted “Save room for dessert!” Chocolate, Mole Negro pairs Rompope mousse with cacao-espresso crumble, Mexican cacao nib ice cream, bittersweet chocolate pudding, and Oaxacan black mole.
The experts speak
Google reviews were mostly gushy.
“Exceptional. We attended Topolobambo for the first time for their Day of the Dead menu. From the service to the wine selection to the tasting menu, every aspect of the experience was phenomenal. We were thrilled to see Rick Bayless present and speaking with patrons. Some highlights for us were the Pipian and the (off menu surprise) machaca tacos. Highly recommended.”
Topolobampo is located at 445 N. Clark Street. On Wednesday and Thursday, their first seating is at 6pm, and their final seating at 8:30pm. Fridays and Saturdays, his first seating at 5:30pm, and the final seating is at 9pm. For reservations, click here.
Alison Moran-Powers and Dean’s Team Chicago
