Restaurant Review: m.henry

This past weekend I made my way to one of my favorite breakfast spots not just in the city but in the galaxy: m.henry. Located at 5707 North Clark Street in one of our favorite Chicago neighborhoods, Andersonville, this BYOB eatery has been elevating the breakfast and brunch game since 2003.

Anyone who has been here before, especially on the weekend, knows there is usually a wait to get inside, and for a good reason. The menu is bursting with flavorful offerings that blend culinary creativity with irresistible taste that will make you want to petition to have this beloved spot open 24 hours a day.

The menu at m.henry truly offers something for everyone, and I mean everyone. Vegan? No problem. Need gluten-free options? They have you covered. Vegetarian? Get ready to be happy. And for breakfast meat-eaters, well, if you haven’t been here before, you just found your new favorite place.

Seated in their socially-spaced garden patio on an unseasonably warm October weekend, I ordered my go-to dish whenever I visit, the cinnamon roll French toast for $12. The plate is made with house-baked brioche cinnamon rolls, covered in a mountain of delicious warm seasonal fruit and vanilla Neufchatel crème, and topped with a crunchy granola crust. The results? Well, let’s put it this way – if I was given one last meal and Governor Pritzker was not handing out a stay of execution, I would order this plate from m.henry with all the unbridled optimism of a kid waiting to open presents on Christmas morning.

Since I knew I would be reviewing m.henry, it was only right that I tried a little bit of everything that the others in my group ordered. I was getting more resistance at this restaurant than usual when it came to sharing, which is understandable given the abundance of taste on each plate, but I had a job to do. 

The blackberry bliss cakes ($11.50) didn’t overexaggerate on the title. Light and fluffy hotcakes with warm blackberries and vanilla mascarpone cream topped with brown sugar and oat crust provided a long pause of ecstasy after each bite. 

The real gem for my taste buds was the gluten-free Latina omeletta ($13.99). Even if you have no gluten issues, this omelet is a tour de force of taste featuring black beans, plum tomatoes, sour cream, and Wisconsin sharp cheddar alongside green and sweet onions and cilantro covered in chipotle sauce and served with sweet plantains and house potatoes. Yes, the description is a mouthful. One bite, however, will conjure up only one word: Heavenly. 

When it comes to sides offered at m.henry, you can’t wrong with anything on the menu. I especially love the applewood smoked bacon and the roasted russet house potatoes featuring onions, red pepper, and fresh rosemary. The veggie sausage, fresh fruit salad, and tempeh strips all provide great flavor while sticking to dietary and/or lifestyle choices for those steering clear of meat. 

The next time you’re in the mood for breakfast or brunch that will leave a lasting impression, head over to m.henry where the portion size is enormous, and the explosion of taste on each plate is even more significant.

m.henry is open Tuesday through Friday from 8 am to 2:30 pm. Saturday through Sunday hours are 8 am to 3 pm. They are closed on Mondays. 

ERIC KAPLAN AND DEAN’S TEAM CHICAGO