Restaurant Review: Friend of the Devil
When it comes to getting a bite to eat, takeout and delivery have been king these last few months in Chicago. While indoor dining is open in many spots throughout the city, getting a reservation and dealing with the necessary restrictions due to COVID-19 has made the dining experience we know and love is vastly different.
Yet as always out of necessity comes invention and pop-up restaurants have increased in Chicago as a way to bring delectable food to the masses without resorting to a brick and mortar setting. This week I was in Wicker Park and made my way to Friend of the Devil, located at 1431 North Milwaukee.
But isn’t that location the home of the beloved Devil Dawgs, you might be asking? It certainly is. However, this summer, the spot is also home to Friend of the Devil and the delicious foods created by local chef extraordinaire Andrew Brochu of Roister on Fulton Market fame.
So before you bemoan another hot dog restaurant review, read on to see why Friend of the Devil is one of the best pop-ups to debut amid the pandemic. And it has nothing to do with red hots (although those are great too.)
Chicago was eagerly awaiting chef Brochu’s newest restaurant, which was set to open up this year. However, that didn’t pan out due to the current economic conditions due to COVID-19. So Brochu collaborated with Devil Dawgs. Now Wicker Park is home to Friend of the Devil, and Chicagoan’s taste buds are celebrating the results.
If you got around to dining at Roister while chef Brochu was there, you no doubt are aware of his world-famous fried chicken sandwiches. Well, that fantastic culinary creation of Brochu’s is now available at Friend of the Devil, and Chicago is a better place for it.
Not getting the chicken sandwich at Friend of the Devil is akin to going scuba diving and not getting in the water; it just doesn’t’ make sense. From the first bite to the last, this fantastic creation makes you forget everything you thought you knew concerning what an excellent chicken sandwich could be.
Consisting of buttermilk fried chicken, chamomile mayo, sunchoke hot sauce, lettuce, and a dill pickle on a soft brioche bun, the Brochu’s sandwich would make a vegetarian seriously consider a lifestyle change. It’s no wonder the chef has left a trail of mouth-watering customers following his every move.
Variations of the chicken sandwich include the Oingo Boingo featuring hot jalapeno butter honey, the New York Doll highlighted by Brochu’s buttered hot sauce alongside blue cheese, and the ATLien, which is a leaned out version sans hot sauce, mayo, and lettuce. You can’t go wrong with any of these, which will put you back around $12.
Of course, the smash patty burgers deserve a review onto themselves with variations, including the Sgt. Pepper (pepper-crusted smash patty, Swiss, mayo, and mushrooms), This Dream (Alabama white BBQ, bacon, and charred onions), and the Friend of the Devil (cheese, DD house sauce, onions, and pickles on a potato bun).
Until chef Brochu finds his next spot, head over to Wicker Park’s Friend of the Devil pronto. After one bite, you’ll realize Jerry Garcia may have been talking about chicken sandwiches when he sang, “ A friend of the devil is a friend of mine.”
Friend of the Devil is open Wednesday through Sunday for carryout from 1 pm to 8 pm.
ERIC KAPLAN AND DEAN’S TEAM CHICAGO
