Restaurant Review: South Loop’s Exchequer Pub serves up Pizza, Ribs, and Chicago’s Gangster History
In the Roaring 20’s, the 226 Club on South Wabash Avenue was like many of their day…a ’legitimate’ restaurant on the first floor hid a speakeasy in the upper balcony, frequented by notorious gangster Al ‘Scarface’ Capone.
Though the 226 Club closed after Prohibition, the restaurant has stayed in business ever since. And, since 1969, it’s been the Exchequer Pub, home of the #1 Deep Dish Pizza. Since 1982, The Mannos Brothers (Tom, George, Steve, and Jimmy) have capitalized on Exchequer’s history, adding a not-so-secret speakeasy (Club X), and refurbishing the luxurious 1920’s art deco décor and chandeliers over the doorway.
Why is it called Exchequer?
As their website says, the name “Exchequer” comes from the treasurer of England – the restaurant was originally modeled after an old English pub and is located in the financial district of downtown Chicago.
Home of Deep Dish Pizza
The menu was limited at first, but the main feature was Exchequer Deep Dish Pizza. The pizza was an instant favorite, and has become one of the signature items offered to this day. As the Chicagoist noted, “Exchequer does a wonderful deep dish. It has the proper foreboding thud of something that could possibly end you, but the surprising lightness of crust that deep dishes I like best have. The vegetables taste fresh and the cheese is both generous and gooey, as it should be.”
You can build your own, or choose from such specialties as The Chicago, with Italian sausage, Italian beef, onion, and giardiniera. Veggie includes mushroom, fresh spinach, onion, and green pepper. The Mob is a meaty combination of Italian sausage, pepperoni, Italian beef, and fresh garlic.
The Food
There’s plenty more to tempt at Exchequer.
For starters, try The Trio, your pick of three of the following: wings, tenders, fries, sweet potato fries, curly fries, onion rings, or cheese curds, served with your choice of dipping sauces. Baked Goat Cheese Dip also has mozzarella, Parmesan and marinara sauce, served with toasted garlic bread. Homemade Meatballs are two hand-rolled, three-ounce sirloin meatballs with homemade marinara sauce.
The burgers include The Ex Burger, a full half-pound of angus beef, cheddar cheese, bacon, red onion, and BBQ sauce. Big Al’s Burger features a fried egg, American cheese, bacon, and grilled onion. All burgers are served with choice of fries, cole slaw, or side salad.
For an unusual twist on ribs, try Exchequer’s tangy Mediterranean Ribs, served Greek-style with roasted Greek potatoes. Exchequer’s Steak Frites is a 10-ounce sirloin, served with caramelized onions and your choice of fries.
Chicken Parmesan is served with rigatoni and marinara sauce. And don’t miss Al’s favorite… Capone’s Rigatoni, served with your choice of Italian sausage or meatballs, and vodka or marinara sauce.
Lighter appetites will enjoy Herbed Salmon, served with rice and fresh seasonal vegetables, as well as Greek Salad with feta cheese, Kalamata olives, banana peppers, anchovy, and house dressing, as well as their Harvest Salad with goat cheese, craisins, pistachio, apple, onion, dressed in champagne vinaigrette.
Google reviewers appreciate the blend of quality food and authentic Chicago history.
“We came on a Thursday and sat at the bar, but if you are coming I’d make a reservation as it was absolutely packed around 6p,” said one. “The bartender was so friendly and recommended the Goat Cheese Dip which was unreal, you have to order this. We also split a personal crispy pizza and it was very good.
Their espresso martini was very good, and so was the old fashioned and godfather. We had such a great experience and can’t wait to come back and get a burger.”
Another wrote:
“It’s a staple of Chicago culture and I have been coming here since the late 1990’s. I hadn’t had the opportunity to come by in over 20 years, but walking it I felt like I was taken back in time.
The décor is still glorious and reminiscent of old Chicago and its gangland past.
Service is fast and friendly.
Burgers are great and the chicken Parm sandwich is not to be missed.”
Exchequer Pub is located at 226 S. Wabash Avenue. They are open Monday-Wednesday,11am –10 pm, Thursday-Saturday, 11 am –11 pm, and Sunday, 11am – 9pm. For reservations, click here.
Alison Moran-Powers and Dean’s Team Chicago
