Restaurant Review: Orkenoy
A creative new brewpub recently opened in Humboldt Park, and the drinks and eats are well worth the visit. Located in the Kimball Arts Center at 1757 North Kimball Avenue, Orkenoy is the neighborhood’s first brewery. Featuring enticing brews named after pets, delicious apps, and standout Scandinavian open-faced sandwiches, Orkenoy’s menu will make you quickly forget about the typical burger fare offered at most other joints.
The brewery is the creation of beer biz vets Ryan Sanders and Jonny Ifergan, and their collaborative effort is highlighted by the great offerings that make up their unique menu.
When it comes to Orkenoy’s menu, my friends and I couldn’t stop raving about the smorrebrod, the previously mentioned Scandanavian open-faced sandwiches. The surprising combo of flavors packed in the Spambrod, featuring fried spam, gochujang aioli, egg jam, kimchi, American cheese, and scallion on Hawaiian bread, made me rethink any reservations I previously had about spam. Just to be sure, though, I ordered a second and no longer will I ever wince as I pass the canned cooked pork at the grocery. This in itself is quite a feat, and all thanks go to the kitchen at Orkenoy.
The menu features a mouth-watering selection of other open-faced options, including the heirloom tomato option with Capriole goat cheese, white balsamic aioli, and tarragon on publican sourdough. The chicken salad sandwich is a winning blend of flavor featuring charred scallion and chicken salad with garam masala pickles and hot sauce on the house rye. A sandwich will cost you $7, or grab two for $14 or three for $19.
The items on the shareable portion of the menu are spot on in delivering exquisite flavors prepared with a keen eye towards explosive taste. You can’t go wrong with the smoked trout spread made up of locally sourced smoked trout, potato, horseradish, whipped cream, and toasted rugbrod. I wasn’t sure what I was getting into with this dish, as fish is not my usual pick, but the splendid medley of ingredients made me a believer. The trout spread will run you $8, as will the hibiscus salmon, which is adorned with tomatillo relish, zucchini, dill crema, and couscous.
Since this is a brewery, I was eager to try out Orkenoy’s drink menu and was very satisfied with their house-made offerings. Named after childhood pets and serving as a recognition of the farmhouse ales from Norway and neighboring countries, the selection is second to none for beer enthusiasts. Be sure to sip on Orkenoy’s Budgie Powderhorn, Appalachian maze ale, and the Belle Aldine, a savory lemon sage gooseberry wheat. Cocktails, including the Sellanraa, featuring akvavit, rye, and Icelandic moss syrup, and The Dance of Life, consisting of champagne and absinthe cocolero, orange, lime, and ginger, earned big raves from my party.
So make it a point to visit Humboldt Park’s first brewery for something out of the ordinary that will appease your taste buds. And if you have a furry friend at home, feel free to submit their name, the street you grew up on, and a story about the pup, and maybe Orkenoy will name their next beer after your four-legged pal.
Orkenoy is open Monday through Friday at 5pm and Saturday and Sunday at noon for dining in. They are closed on Tuesdays. Their pickup window is open daily (except Tuesdays) from noon to 10 pm.
ERIC KAPLAN AND DEAN’S TEAM CHICAGO
