Logan Square is home to a plethora of great restaurants catering to even the most eclectic tastes. But what about when you want to have some delicious American-inspired grub devoid of pretense and heavy on flavor? Look no further than Giant located at 3209 W. Armitage, which I visited with friends on a recent freezing January night.
One can’t go wrong with anything off the menu here. Just a visit or two will prove this is no overstatement. We started the evening with the Fried Super Uni Shooter featuring creamy uni housed in a crispy shell and complemented by cucumber and soy. Yes, uni is sea urchin, but trust us, you won’t regret ordering it. In fact, this small but powerful dish is one of Giant’s fan favorites.
The Butternut Squash featuring green curry, pepitas, and ricotta Salata is mouth-watering, offering up a collage of taste that had us ordering a second plate. Friends strongly recommended the Sortallini, and our taste buds couldn’t be happier experiencing the guanciale, pinenuts, and cheese immersed in basil sauce.
Rounding out the evening’s appetizers was the broccoli. I was hesitant, as this veggie has historically represented a life long battle at the dinner table, but Giant’s take, featuring chickpeas, honey, and mint, was a revelation. I almost felt the need to apologize to my mom for years of avoiding broccoli, but she certainly didn’t prepare it as Giant does.
The main course for the evening was the Chef’s Special consisting of Szechuan tofu and ground pork. Word of warning- this dish is hot and delectable. The flavors pop and complement each other in a way that words cannot do justice. Perhaps “hotilcious” would do the trick. Until Webster’s Dictionary agrees with me, I can only urge you to try this standout offering.
It’s tight quarters at Giant with patrons packed in like sardines at the 44-seat capacity restaurant featuring whitewashed brick and wood paneling. There is no discernible theme trying to grab your attention, but when the food is this flavorful, who needs one? The portions are petite, which is a plus, as you want to try out as many of these unique dishes as possible. So make reservations at this Logan Square eatery, open from 5 pm to 10:30 pm Tuesday through Sunday, and take a giant leap in the direction of deliciousness.
Eric Kaplan & Dean’s Team Chicago